The Michelin Guide California The ceremony was held on Monday, August 5, in the ballroom of the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay to announce the tire manufacturer’s selection of restaurants that would either receive new stars or retain their previously awarded status (Bib Gourmands were announced in a press release after the ceremony).
That evening, there was a festive mood among the chefs and restaurant owners in attendance, especially the first-time chefs who brought friends, partners and staff to the ceremony. For chefs from long-time starred restaurants who have already run the rigors of the Michelin gauntlet, the ceremony became a reunion of friends from across the state and an opportunity to meet like-minded people from the Michelin star world. But eventually, the mood in the room became a hectic, lively affair as the clock ticked toward 7 p.m., the day the ceremony began, and the small bites of Vespertine, Hilda and Jesse dwindled. The event took place under the watchful eye of the (inexplicably partially limp) Michelin mascot Bibendum, who posed for photos with the excited guests and stood out as a conspicuous member of the crowd.
Michelin awarded three Bay Area restaurants one new star each and three Michelin Special Awards, but the program wasn’t without its hiccups. As other media outlets reported, Michelin’s livestream failed without a clear Plan B, so the responsibility of streaming the event was effectively placed on the media members in attendance. After that antisocial social media moment, further confusion ensued as attendees were unable to follow an unclear announcement about which restaurants would retain their stars, prompting chefs to pull up Michelin’s press release on their phones to figure out their restaurant’s name. All hiccups aside, Bay Area chefs shared their thoughts with Eater San Francisco on the awards and what it means to earn (or keep) an elusive Michelin star.
About the positive aspects of the ceremony
“Keeping a star is always a nice achievement for all the hard work you’ve put in all year. And for those who didn’t get it this year, there’s another one next year. I just wish – with all due respect – it hadn’t been such an awkward show. I (hope) that everyone who kept their star can breathe a sigh of relief. — Chef Joe Hou, anglerkept one star
About the awarding of a star
“A lot of stupid things happened in between (leaving Marlena and opening 7 Adams). It was such a long year. My hair went very grey. In between there was so much work and so many hard-working people. Right now, this moment is extremely meaningful – not only for me, but of course for Serena and the rest of our team and everyone who has worked so hard and stayed with us for so long. It’s just that… the pain (of leaving Marlena) is gone now. It’s all joy and happiness – at least in this moment, right now.” – cChef David Fisher, 7 Adamsawarded one star
“I’m very proud – not only of myself, but of the whole team. It’s cool that I got the Young Chef Award, but of course I’m not the only one cooking in the kitchen. It’s the whole team, it’s the service. So I said to the head chef and the sous chef who are here: ‘This is for you too.’ We all managed to get here. And yes, maybe my name is on it, but this is for the restaurant – not just the Michelin star, but also the Young Chef Award. This is all for Kiln.” – cMr John Wesley, Ovenawarded one star and winner of the Michelin Young Chef Award for 2024
“I think Hilda and Jesse have had a really tough time and have hung on for the last two and a half years. So from a business and moral standpoint, this is pretty important for us. It validates what we’re doing.” — Chef Kristina Liedags Compton, Hilda and Jesseawarded one star; co-owner Rachel Sillcocks is winner of the Michelin Outstanding Service Award
About the misunderstandings that come with a Michelin star
“Every year you get a new Michelin star. It’s not like once you have it you get to keep it. Every year it’s both exciting and a little scary because once you have something you don’t want to lose it. It’s always an honor to be recognized for the hard work our whole team has put into the restaurant. We all know the last few years have been tough. We all hang in there and do our best. We’re happy to continue to receive this recognition.” — Chef Pim Techamuanvivit, Nari And Kin Khaokept one star
“There aren’t that many things these days that I really dress up for, but this is one of those occasions that feels really special. I want to appreciate it — I’ve had friends who have lost (stars), so I’m really trying to get better at being more present. I think when you’re in that deep in it, you don’t take enough time to realize what it takes to drive the team. There’s so much ‘let’s go, let’s go, let’s go, let’s go.’ The pandemic made me realize that one day the restaurant is going to close, so I really take note of every year and every team that we have every year. It’s a huge morale boost for them to feel like we’re still being kept in that kind of company and that we also have a responsibility to exceed the expectations of what it means to get that recognition. It still feels like a big deal.” — Chef Brandon Jew, Mr. Jiu’skept one star